It is 9:30 in the morning when we arrive at the final bus stop along the A16 route from central Athens. This is the route we travel every day, to reach the camp at the industrial port of Skaramangas. As I step onto the embankment of the busy motorway I am hit by a wave of heat. We make our way through the pedestrian underpass, accompanied by some refugees – a young family with two babies in a pushchair, a couple of teenagers returning from the city. As I follow the rubbish-strewn path I am already wishing that there were more shade.